Mishiguene: Jewish legacy with a contemporary twist

Ever since it opened in 2014, Mishiguene has reinterpreted the flavors that were brought into the country by generations of Jewish immigrants. Ten years later, the place run by chef Tomás Kalika stands as a restaurant that transforms family memories into haute cuisine, earning international recognition: a Michelin recommendation, eight consecutive years on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, and the 2024 Best Chef Award for Kalika. Mishiguene’s concept is based on what the chef defines as immigrant cuisine: recipes that traveled to Latin America from Eastern Europe, the Mediterranean, and the Middle East. Heritage and innovation coexist in every dish — from the first appetizers (like the pickled mango blossom with goat’s labneh) to their famous pastrami, a ribeye cured for ten days, smoked over wood for four hours, and steamed for another fourteen, which can be served with latkes or a truffled farfalaj risotto. While the restaurant’s overall approach is more contemporary than nostalgic, even the bread basket blends tradition and modernity, mixing pita, challah, and Jerusalem bagel. Other interesting takes include potato vareniki with schmaltz and caramelized onion, filo pastry burek with truffled purée and egg foam, or the Moroccan grouper with peppers, tomato, preserved lemon, and spices, served with couscous and seasonal vegetables. The desserts add subtlety, like the coconut malabi with pineapple and gochujang chutney, the apple strudel with artisanal vinegar gel, or the leicaj, a honey pudding with yogurt ice cream and rosemary syrup. Cocktails like the Beba Ganush (vodka, smoked eggplant, and sumac) or the Lo’ez (Príncipe de los Apóstoles gin, cucumber vermouth, and tonic) also condense complexity, identity, and thrill.